Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013/14 Paris Fashion Week
Internet Ref: 'Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2013/14 in Paris', Paris modes TV, http://www.parismodes.tv/alexander-mcqueen-collection-femme-automne-hiver-201314-a-paris/?lang=en
McQueen's Fall/Winter collection for 2013/14 is a wonderful example of Elizabethan hair design being merged with modern day high fashion. The collection focused on the concept of divine inspiration and creative director Sarah Burton based the theme of the show heavily on the concept of Elizabethan regality and 16th century Catholicism demonstrated through the use of gold and pearl embellished dramatic cauls, stiff white ruffs and satin corsetry. Beneath the pearl cages sit rows of white blonde laying pin curls creating a more modern version of the tight crown of curls that are so prominent within Elizabethan portraiture, although these curls could be taken as a more 1940's setting style this is counteracted mainly through the choice of decor that is used with the look. The gold cage that sits around the head of the model structures itself like an highly ornate caul that is almost futuristic in design, the cage sits around the whole head covering both the hair and face and is extravagantly dramatic. The design of the cage is highly ornate covered in a number of pearls and ruby like gems, two prominent jewels within Elizabethan costume. Pearls were symbolic of chastity and femininity within the 16th/early 17th century and rubies were also symbolic of the Queens heart, suggested most famously in the 'Rainbow' portrait 1600, which emphasised her love for both her country and her place as the Queen of England.
McQueens use of the head cage is and excellent example of how decoration can be used to completely alter the historical link of the design, without the cage the hair would simply appear like a pre-styled 1950's pin curl however through the use of a pearl cage immediately the link is to that of Elizabethan regality. This is enhanced more so by the use of the ruff, black and golden tones which are iconic of royalty and in particular were favoured colours by Elizabeth I.
Below are my two favourite costume designs from the show and it is clear to see how the use of the head cage works beautifully with the full design of the pieces but also how even without seeing the full costume, the hair itself is strong in Elizabethan influence through the use of decoration.
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