Historical Research into Elizabethan Hair

Book Ref: 'Womens Hats', Headdresses and Hairstyles With 453 Illustrations, Medieval to Modern', Georgine De Courtais, Dover Publications, 1973
Book Ref: 'A History of Womens Hairstyles 1500-1965', Jean Keyes, Methuen, 1967 
Book Ref: 'Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History', Victoria Sherrow, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2006

Elizabeth I is considered the icon of 16th c
beauty, her hair was considered the perfect
form of red and even as she aged her wigs
were designed to mimic her original locks with
heavy decoration and tight frizzy curls.

Elizabeth I - The Darnley Portrait 1575
Frederico Zuccari
Oil on canvas
http://beautifulwithbrains.com/wp-content/
uploads/2010/05/Elizabeth-I.jpg

From 1940 onward hair continued to be rolled smoothly over into mounds back from the temples as it had been throughout the Tudor period. Frizzing and close tight curls continued to also be common styles for the hair, often the back of the hair was left in looser curls often enclosed in a hat or Caul (embellished with gold, silver and jewels). A Caul was a type of net made from a sturdy thread, woven into a mesh of gold, silver and sometimes even hair. A Goldsmith would then set pearls and semi precious stones into the cross sections of the netting. A middle parting was also popular and the hair was then rolled back into tight curls that would create the illusion of a taller forehead.
Between 1560-1570 Headdresses had shrunk to a petite bonnet size and into a shape that was more complimentary to the shape of the hair. To shape around the neck, hair was kept short at the back and high in the forehead and ears, often the hair was also padded to create structured height and then secured with gum or another sticky substance that would hold the hair in place. This hair was then powdered to remove any shiny residue or grease.
By 1570-1580 hair was drawn up from the forehead without a parting and fitted over larger pads or wire frames to a greater height and width. A downward curve in the front of the hair also enabled a heart shape to be formed at the front centre of the hairline created a soft heart shape that was considered a beautiful feminine style to be worn by the regal and wealthy. Often hairs would also be plucked or shaved from the front bow of the hairline so that this heart shape would occur more naturally, this would also lengthen the forehead implying a sense of wisdom to the wearer. During this period womens' hair for both the married and single was considered more desirable to be left uncovered by dramatic hairpieces, therefore the caul became the key solution for practical decoration. The back of the hair for a married woman was normally kept either coiled or plaited behind the head into large wrapped bun. It was during this peril that having red/gold hair became the height of fashion and even Elizabeth's hair was described by Sir James Melville as turning "more reddish than yellow" in tones.
Between the period of 1590-1600 onwards the tendency for frizzing the hair had become less fashionable and had all but disappeared unless adding height to elaborate styles, it was within this period that Peri Wigs became increasingly fashionable for the upper classes. Peri Wigs were made of tiny curls of hair and gently frizzing that was brushed into waves, these wigs were built into a variety of shapes usually symmetrical and often with a pronounced peak in the centre of the forehead and backcombing became extremely fashionable as an alternative for creating width and structure. Hair also became exceedingly precious during this period and was often stolen from young girls and children by shaving their hair in orphanages or through the selling of hair by their parents. This hair was then used to create Peri wigs with the hair often being enhanced with artificial colour using dyes made of saffron, rhubarb juice and vitriol (sulphuric acid), this turned the hair from a soft golden copper to vibrant shades of orange reds but often causes side effects of hair loss and scalp burning.
Women of lesser wealth and social status were identifiable through a more basic hair styling which was often uncoloured and wore an inexpensive crepe net or simple hair bag made from cloth. Those who could afford it would braid the hair with silk ribbon or string and wrap the hair into a plait at the back of the head.