Four Examples of Elizabethan Headdresses

Book Ref: 'Womens Hats', Headdresses and Hairstyles With 453 Illustrations, Medieval to Modern', Georgine De Courtais, Dover Publications, 1973
Book Ref: 'Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History', Victoria Sherrow, Greenwood Publishing Group, 2006

French Hood

Anne Boleyn - French Hood
Oil on Panel
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The French Hood despite its name does not take its origin from the country of France, instead it is based on the Tudor English Gable Hood but was stiffened with wire structuring to maintain the shape of the hood. The French Hood was believed to have been introduced to England by Anne Boleyn during her relations and marriage to Henry VIII which she adopted from a style seen on her continental travels through Europe and was brought back to England and adopted as part of her wardrobe. This portrait of Anne Boleyn depicts the early versions of the French Hood which featured simple pearl decoration and rich black fabrics with rouge silks, the hood was often placed over a black veil which was secured to the sides of the head and would conceal the back of the hair. As the hoods style gained popularity through the Tudor period its style adapted and changed to become significant smaller and more delicate. By the time Elizabeth I had come to the throne the hood had come to be known as a 'Billiment', it was now much more delicate often being made entirely of lace and decorated with small pearls, stones and gold pieces. The hood would stay mostly hidden beneath a bouffant of hair while the jewels became bigger and more elaborate in decoration making the hood more of a setting platform for the decoration of the hair.

Lady Denman - Example of Attifet
1590, Painter Unknown
Oil on Panel
http://www.gogmsite.net/_Media/
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Attifet

Similar to that of a French Hood, the Attifet was a wire structured headdress that was ornately decorated and placed above the wearers hair, the front of the hairpiece dips forward to create a shape resembling a soft heart. The Attifet was originally introduced to England by Mary Queen of Scots and Catherine De Medici at the beginning of the 16th century although its design, much like the French Hood, originates from Europe in particular France. The Attifet was normally made of a silk or linen fabric that was lightweight and sheer in appearance, this fabric was then trimmed with delicate lace and pearls. The lace trim was conventionally white however when changed to a black lace the Attifet became known as a Widows Hood. The Widows Hood was first worn by Eleanor Queen Dowager of France and differed slightly in appearance from the original Attifet, the Widows Hood was secured under the chin and to a coil of hair just below the cranium with the curve fitting next to the temples and corner of the mouth. The Widows Hood was also significantly less heart shaped and more subtly rounded in overall appearance, with a black lace also placed around the neck to fasten the hood more securely to the wearer. 

Pillbox Hat

Portrait of Unknown Lady - Pillbox Hat
16th century, Painter Unknown
Oil on Panel
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The Pillbox Hat was popular from the early years of Elizabeth's reign until about 1595. The hat was a flat compact style headdress which was rounded in shape and fitted to the back of the hair often over a bun or braided wrap of hair supported by a Caul or net, this hat was then stiffened inside with thick paper or starch to hold its shape. The hat was also adorned with pearls and jewels around the edge and embroider with gold thread and blackwork, because of this the Pillbox hat was a headdress only affordable to the wealthy. Often being used during riding to keep the curls beneath neat and in place for the purpose of presentation. Feathers could also be put into the hats sides to add extra fashionable detail and notification of class.

Elenora Toledo Portrait - Caul
16th century, Agnolo Bronzino
Oil on Panel
http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com
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Caul
This was a headdress that was designed more for practicality to fit beneath a French Hood or hat, because of this it is a feature rarely seen independently within Elizabethan portraiture.  The Caul was a type of hair net made from a sturdy thread, woven into a mesh of gold or silver colour and sometimes even using string made of golden toned hair to thicken out the netting. A Goldsmith would then set pearls and semi precious stones into the cross sections of the netting as decoration, the more heavily adorned the Caul the more wealthy the wearer. Women of lower economic status who could not afford the highly decorated Caul would resort to a simple linen cloth bag which would hold the hair away from the face or a basic netting made of string. The Caul however regardless of status was a piece designed for practicality to hold the hair securely back under headdresses and decorated for the purpose of fashion.