Friday, 17 October 2014

Test - Elizabethan Up-dos Using Plaits

Practising Elaborate Plaits
After learning the basics of plaiting the hair into three different styles; fishtail, conventional and french, it was important to experiment with creating a more elaborate Elizabethan interpretation. 
Double French Plait
I began with creating ways that plaits could be used to frame the face and create a soft fold much like the hair seen within a number of portraits from the period. I did this by creating two french plaits that came from the centre parting of the hairline and followed down the front of the face and over the ears, this method was effective as it did not require to much hair to complete as only the front section was required allowing room for additional buns or curls to be put into the surrounding hair. To create a more Elizabethan appearance pieces of thread or ribbon could be placed through the plait in future to add an extra element of decoration, however at the time I did not have any spare material such as this to hand therefore I had to think more creatively as to how I could create an overall more ornate Elizabethan hairstyle using plaits alone.
Six Plait Up-do
By removing the original lower French plait and splitting it into another two smaller plaits it allowed me to wrap them around one another to create a spiral effect at the front of the head, this was more effective in concealing the top of the ears and also appeared more ornate. Then using the lower back section of the remaining hair I created two thicker conventional braids that were wrapped around one another into a bun shape, this also allowed me to conceal the loose ends of the original front plaits underneath with hair pins.
Then separating the final top section I created one large conventional plait all the way down the remaining hair and twisted it around into a larger bun that concealed all the pins of the previous lower braids. The end was then tucked neatly into the heart of the plait creating a spiral shape. This look was created only onto one side of the head however if repeated on the other side the hair would form two plaited twists that circled from the front of the hairline backwards towards the nape of the neck. When viewed from the back it would create a soft heart shape which was a popular shape to hold within the hair during the Elizabethan period as it was both feminine and elegant. Although I was satisfied with the final outcome of this hairstyle it was still rather scruffy with small pieces of hair sticking out from amongst the layers. This was something that needed to be developed as although the plaits themselves were tidy the final look was unfinished to a smooth standard.

Home Practise - Elizabethan Plait with Pearls
Not so successful attempt
at a lower french plait that
followed the hairline at the
nape of the neck.
Due to my previous dissatisfaction with the final outcome of my hair design in class I decided to simplify the look and focus on being able to create a conventional Elizabethan plaited undo that was neater in its overall finished appearance. I began by sectioning off the lower section of hair and attempting to create a French plait that followed the lower hairline at the nape of the neck originating from the temples, however this proved extremely difficult to follow as the hairline is not one perfect curve but more square in areas on the doll, it also did not leave much hair free at the top of the head for additional plaiting so I moved on to another idea.
Like before I began by splitting the hair down a centre parting and creating two french plaits that went from the front of the hairline down the bottom layer softly covering the ears. The ends were then crossed over one another with the ends tucked neatly in amongst the plait on the opposite side. This then left the top section free which I also plaited back but further down the head into a large french braid into a conventional plait. The end of this plait was then twisted round and placed alongside the bottom plait with the ends tucked into the starting hairline at the front of the head. This was repeated again on the other side. Overall I was pleasantly satisfied with this version as despite being simpler in design it was significantly neater and with a better finish (although the plaits were not completely identical with the left side being slightly closer to the centre back of the head), to add that extra Elizabethan edge I took a vintage string of pearls and laid them between the two main plaits as a type of decorative band, giving the hair a slightly more elegant and regal feel.
Finished Look With/Without Pearl Adornment

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